FatManSeoul

Bindaeddeok (빈대떡) may be less common than the ever-popular pajeon (바전), but this chunky cousin has loads of tastes to offer. It used to be a food for special occasions, but nowadays it’s easy to enjoy it anytime your heart desires.

Basic pajeon are made with a wheat flour (밀가루) base, but it’s certainly not the only kind on offer. Similar griddle cakes are made with myriad materials, including acorn starch, potatoes, and mung beans. The thick, gritty goodness of 빈대떡 is based on mung bean sprouts that have been ground (usually on a millstone, be it battery-operated or hand-cranked) into a loose paste and mixed with any number of different vegetables or meats (and occasionally other flours or starches) before being poured onto a greased griddle and fried. The exterior crisps to a deep golden brown but the interior takes on an almost fluffy texture that keeps a bit of grit from the coarsely ground bean sprouts for an amazing mouth feel. They’re heavier and heartier than other kinds of jeon, and satisfying to make a meal in and of themselves. And, like their lighter cousins, they come in many varieties: there’s seafood versions (해물빈대떡) and ones with kimchi (김치빈대떡) – just about any edible plant or flesh can be thrown into the mix.

Mixes are available in most large grocery stores that you can use at home by following the instructions and your tastes, but nothing beats the real thing. Unfortunately, most people aren’t willing to invest in a millstone to have fresh ground beans (although a good food processor will do in a pinch), so your next best bet is to go find a restaurant that does. And for places that specialize in bindaeddeok you can always count on the major markets. Gwangjang market (광장 시장) near Dongdaemun (동대문) is well known for the many different bindaeddeok stalls, but for Fatman’s money the best place is the new Seoul Flea Market (풍물 시장).
For anybody interested in urban development and problems, this market is one of the most fascinating. Most of the merchants originally worked under the mega-overpass that was torn down to make way for every Seoulite’s favorite urban green space, Cheongyecheon (청계천). It may be a well-loved space now, but the little downtown stream that could displaced thousands of Seoul’s poorest and caused not a little controversy. Given scant compensation and fewer options, some of the people were able to move their businesses selling everything and more to Dongdaemun Stadium, but that space was only temporary. Even fewer of them made the transition to the new market, but it still has many, many rewards for the intrepid shopper and eater.

Finding the market is a bit of a pain, but the new space is clean and well laid out. There’s an incredible amount of stuff here – everything from antique furniture to army surplus to . . .um . . . stuff (be careful letting your kids wander free on parts of the second floor.) Best of all for foodies, both the first and second floor have wonderful food courts where you can get some of the cheapest, best bindaeddeok ever! The first booth on the right on the second floor makes a particularly tasty version of both the classic (녹두빈대떡) and a feisty seafood and kimchi (해물김치빈대떡) for a mere 5,000 won. They’re outstanding: A fantastically crispy exterior isn’t marred in the least by too much oil (a common bindaeddeok problem) while the inside is gorgeously fluffy and mealy for a perfect ratio of crunchy to cushy. Bonus: Some varieties are vegetarian friendly! Each serving comes with some side greens and a deeply earthy ssamjang (쌈장 – a mixture of spices or pepper paste with fermented soybeans used as a condiment) for a palate cleanser. Wash it all down with some of the best homemade dongdongju (동동주 – a fermented rice “wine”, although the process is actually more similar to that of beer-making) jazzed up with the flavors of fruit. Here it’s refreshing, almost frizzante – and alcohol heavy, so no driving or operating heavy equipment after. As a special bonus, here you can order a small bowl (1000 원) that serves one as well as the traditional gigantic serving bowl that holds enough to intoxicate an entire football team.

Seoul Flea Market is about 100 meters from exit 9 of Shinseoldong Station (신설동역) on lines 1 and 2. Click here for the map (한국어 링크).