seoul food for people who love to eat
Ok, so FatMan’s first thought upon hearing the word “Kaya” was that it must be referring to the small Gaya Confederacy of the early Three Kingdoms Period centered in the Gimhae area of the Nakdong River Basin. But just like so much of the food scene in Seoul, Fatman was about to be blown away by the delicious possibilities of international exchange.
Kaya, it turns out, is also a delicious treat from Southeast Asia. This dense coconut custard-style jam is a green, creamy delight that Singaporeans and Malaysians have long been using to top their toast. Taken with thick, sweet coffee or tea, it’s a quintessential breakfast treat made with coconut, eggs, and pandan or sugar. And with Seoul seeing an explosion of international foods and chains opening their doors to our hungry citizens, it was only a matter of time before this oozy treat made its way to our streets.
Kopitiam Kaya Toast gives you kaya toast done up in several different styles: Thick or thin, with kaya, chocolate spread, cheese, or peanut butter. Fatman’s particular favorite is the thin kaya toast for the crispy and toothsome wholemeal toast sliced razor thin to cradle thick slabs of salty butter that melt dreamily into the custard-y kaya. The bread is just chewy and crispy enough to make chewing a joy of contrasting texture against the gooey insides, and the saltiness of the butter adds a key savory note to keep it all from being overwhelmingly sweet. While those in Singapore and Malaysia may treat this as a way to start their day, Seoulites have turned this into a hopping spot for afternoon munching and evening lounging.
In addition to toast, Kopitiam offers the usual range of coffee and tea drinks at the usual prices. Still, if you’re looking to complete your experience, there’s a small selection of drinks done ala Singapore. Both the coffee and teas are exceptionally thick and strong and sweet. Brace yourself, they are big and bold even when served in small cups. They’re not merely bracing, they’re practically a meal in and of themselves.
Kopitiam Kaya Toast has opened two stores in Seoul: The first is at Chonggye 2-ga, overlooking the stream, and the second is just outside exit 2 of Ewha Women’s University Station as you head towards the campus. Both aim for a chill, exotic vibe with lots of rough-hewn planking and ceiling fans to recall the steamy South Asian climate, and are strewn with magazines singing the praises of the city-state. Toast starts at 2500 won, and coffee and tea drinks start from 3000 won.
Their rival chain, Ya Kun, also runs two stores here in Seoul: One in the basement of the Seoul Financial Building (City Hall Station, lines 2 and 4), and the other in the basement of the Kangnam Finance Center.
우리 FatManSeoul는 이러한 이유로 한국의 최고의 음식에 대한 최고의 리뷰와 비평을 공유하고 싶습니다. FatManSeoul는 평범한 음식에서부터 고급음식까지, 강남지역 최고급 레스토랑에서부터 시골 할머니의 집에서 맛볼 수 있는 정이 깃든 찌게까지 모든 음식을 리뷰 대상으로 삼고 있습니다. 우리는 특별한 음식을 찾아 블로그를 통해 전세계에 소개할 것입니다. 또한 음식에 대한 가장 정확한 정보를 리뷰, 레시피, 인터뷰, 팟캐스트, 교재 등을 통해 제공할 것입니다. 이 모든 컨텐츠는 한국어와 영어로 제공될 것입니다. FatManSeoul is Korea's first bilingual online magazine about food. We’re committed to searching high and lo, from the poshest cuisine of Kangnam to the most humble, jeong-laden jjigae of the halmoni-jip in the countryside for the best food in the country. Come here for reviews, recipes, interviews, podcasts, tutorials, and the best, most accurate information on ingredients and methods, in Korean and in English. 같이 먹자!
Bentoist
August 21st, 2008 at 3:35 pm
As a kid, when Ya Kun was just a small food stall at the Telok Ayer Transit Food market along Shenton Road in Singapore, my parents would take me there for breakfast because several stalls there carry the dishes they enjoy. We would try to head there early, before 9 am if possible, before the morning church service is over or we have to wait a long time for our kaya toasts. Back then, the stall was just managed by the Ya Kun’s son and his wife, very nice couple, also very busy too. What I like about them is that they made a point to let their customers know if they ever go on vacation, and who would share how their vacations went.
Anyway, back to the food, (it’s supposed to be all about the food, isn’t it?), kaya toast is the staple of Singaporean coffee-shops. Back in the day, it is uncommon for coffee shops serving kaya toast to slice a regular bread slice into two for kaya toast; they would just slap two pieces of bread together resulting in the thicker sandwich. So what made Ya Kun’s kaya bread stand out from the competition was how they took the time to split each bread slice before slathering it in butter & their signature kaya (coconut jam). This resulted in a slimmer bite with less bread, but more coconut & butter flavors exploding in your mouth.
Kopitiam, also meaning coffee shop in Hokkien, would the coffee shop on the grander scale since it had gone overseas. Looking at the decor, they have gone upscale too-selling the tropical rattan dining experience. It looks really nice.
Me, there are times where I miss the days when the harried owner of Ya Kun and his wife tell me about the 30 minute wait while he rushes to fill his orders, but I also like how after they have gone fast-food, my kaya toast would be ready within 5 minutes of placing my order. I supposed I was lucky to have tried the place before they went big.
fatmanseoul
August 22nd, 2008 at 3:04 pm
How lucky you were to be able to enjoy these chains from the very first! Those are some great stories about Ya Kun!
One thing that’s easy to forget about chain restaurants is that they all started somewhere with just one store, and somebody who really wanted to show their food to the world. Popularity breeds contempt?
Maya
August 23rd, 2008 at 10:46 am
Hot toasts slathered with a thick layer of kaya makes a lovely breakfast! I always tote back Auntie’s Rosie’s kaya whenever I visit home.