FatManSeoul

Set in the picturesque area near Hanseong University, Song’s Kitchen is an old converted hanok nestled into a hollow, making for an almost Brigadoon-like space of cute kitsch. This cosy, artsy space plays host not just to a large collection of ceramic, glass, and ticky-tacky, but also to an impressive open kitchen that turns out Italianate Korean comfort food, some interesting cocktails, and a sweet set of desserts.

Within the neatly segmented interior space, a variety of seating options give a choice between snuggling on a sofa, sitting Korean style on the floor, or sitting at more conventional tables and chairs. A differently designed space might have trouble accommodating the different styles, but clever adaptation of the existing structure gives Song’s Kitchen a homey, organic feel.

Equally eclectic but comforting is their take on food. While the menu is limited and mostly aimed at folks who are nibbling and noshing their way home after work, most of what’s there is competently executed. Italian fare like pizza and pasta stand alongside seafood and kimchi fried rice and a warming mess of ddeok, seafood, and cheese inside an whole roasted pumpkin set the tone for hearty snacks to share with coworkers and friends. While not exceptionally sophisticated or creative, the food matches the cheery atmosphere well, and the drink list even better. Tea, juice, and coffee sit side by side with a limited wine and beer list, and a funky set of cocktails. While most places concentrate on trendy mixed drinks, the most interesting mixes here tend to be beer based, including Fatman’s favorite coffee beer combo (although their sangria ain’t half bad either . . .)

Desserts here are a little bit funkier, a little bit more fun than the usual waffle and ice cream combos. Sure, there’s topped waffles here to satisfy your sweet tooth, but a little more care has gone into their creation. Instead of going with the fad for dense, bread-y, overcooked “Belgian” waffles slathered with syrups and topped with whatever sweets were on hand, the Song’s Kitchen rendition shows a little more style. The waffles are smaller and thinner than the competition, but miles away in texture and taste. They may not have the plumpness of a Belgian waffle, nor the airiness of the street waffles, but they have the right balance of fluff and butter to make for an outstanding compromise. And unlike most, they stay tender and slightly chewy instead of instantly settling into gummy awfulness. The fruit selection that comes with them is very fresh and leans towards the tart rather than sweet, and the organic ice cream on the side is a smooth balancing touch that keeps from overloading the palate. The baked apple ring on top lends a little needed crunch to the proceedings.

Prices here are middling, with most entrees running in the 15-20,000 won range since the food is expected to be shared. Plates meant for individuals run a more modest 5-10,000 won, as do desserts. Drink prices are typical, with beer and cocktails running around 5-10,000 each, and wines starting about 30,000 a bottle.

To get to Song’s Kitchen, take line 4 to Hanseong University. Go straight out exit 6, and walk for approximately twenty minutes. Song’s Kitchen is below the elevated walkway on the right hand side, with the roof sign visible from the road.