seoul food for people who love to eat
You’ve been told it’s difficult, that it takes years of practice to make perfect, that only select humans known as Ajumas can achieve the zen-like state of flow and oneness with the universe that leads to its creation.
LIES!
Anyone can make kimchi – it’s shockingly easy. And you don’t have to make it in huge quantities, or use much in the way of strange ingredients. Heck, you probably have most of the stuff lying around in your pantry right now (ok, if you keep a Korean pantry – but don’t we all?) And despite what your mother told you, it doesn’t not involve insane amounts of labor and suffering for the culinary arts. Shall we begin?

Start with a head of napa cabbage, and pull off the outer-most leaves. They’re green and bitter and you don’t need them. Now, pretend it’s the French Revolution and you’re Robespierre, mirthfully quartering that royalist cabbage.

Now, take a big, big bowl of cold, clean water and toss in a few tablespoons of salt.

Swish that salt around until it dissolves. Take your cabbage and dunk it in the water. It won’t be enough merely trying to stick the thing under though; take some more of the salt and sprinkle it between the leaves.

There we go! Hold that sucker down! Don’t let ‘em get away!

Who knew kimjang was so violent? Once you’ve salted and drowned your cabbage, you’ll need to put something heavy on top to hold it down so that the entire thing stays submerged. Stick something heavy in a smaller bowl and put the bowl on top of the cabbage unless you’re really bored and standing around for a few hours up to your elbows in saltwater sounds amusing. But how many hours?
Well, it depends. The colder it is the longer it will take. Three or four hours is plenty in the summer, but in the winter it can be as much as eight or ten hours to achieve the desired amount of wilting. Go read a good book, plant a tree, do something for world peace. Make yourself useful.

You’ll know its ready when you can bend the cabbage leaves without them snapping or breaking. Only when you’ve truly broken its spirit can you continue. Drain it for a little bit to take off excess water.

Isn’t it pathetic? Don’t get too caught up in its plight, because the real torture is yet to begin . . .

Make yourself a nice clean workspace and prepare:
Got it all together?

Good, now its time to start chopping. Take your ginger and garlic and mince like there’s no tomorrow. Fatman supposes you could always just buy the already minced stuff at the grocery story, but that’s cheating. Mince, baby, mince. Done? Good, now mince that onion!
How much?
Gosh, we don’t know . . . how much would you like? If you like ginger, have a lot of ginger. People afraid of vampires should use lots of garlic. Fatman can’t make all your decisions for you! If you’re adding fruit like pear or apple, you can make that into matchsticks now, too. Don’t relax yet though, because it’s time to tackle the radish. First, slice it into thin rounds.

Now stack the rounds and slice into matchsticks.

Wasn’t that easy? Ok, we’re now ready to rumble.

Take a few heaping spoonfuls of garlic, ginger, onion,, and salt and plop it all in a mixing bowl, which will now be able to fulfill its lifelong dream of being used to mix things, because you’re going to stir it all together. Throw in some sesame seeds. Now, add a few heaping spoonfuls of pepper powder. Don’t be a wuss! Now, add the fish sauce spoonful by spoonful, stirring in between until you get a paste, and finish off with a little bit of sugar.

Get out your gloves, because from here on out it’s getting messy. Throw in your radish sticks and some shreds of green onion, and massage them into the paste.

Feeling cocky now, are we? Ready to rush onto the next step? Well, hold your horses! The ingredients some time to parlay and discuss their next move, so give them at least an hour to congress. Wait until the stuff in the bowl on the right turns into something that looks like the bowl on the left . . .

Go watch a movie, take the dog for a walk, or sit down with the latest issue of Scientific American or Psychology Today and improve your mind for a while. When both you and the mixture have sufficiently relaxed, you’ll be fresh and new and it ought to be gloriously messy and soggy-looking, like this:

Now for the really fun part! Remember this guy?

His time has come! Back on with the prophylactics, it’s about to get interesting. . ..
Open the cabbage so that the first few leaves are flopping down on the plate, and the rest are held high above its poor wee head, as if it were performing some particularly uncomfortable gymnastics or yoga routine. Smear the red gunk all over the limp, pathetic leaves.

Keep spreading gunk between the leaves until the poor sucker has been stuffed to the gills with goo. Make sure you got it into every nook and cranny.

Ready for the last step? Ok, now, all you have left to do is-
Sweet Camille Paglia, who will save us now??? Pick up the Great Old One cabbage and turn it cut side down, but letting two or three of the outermost leaves fall loose. Fold the cabbage in half, grab the loose leaves, and wrap them around the main body of the cabbage.

Voila! The monster has been vanquished! You now have your own perfect-in-every-particular kimchi. Enjoy immediately, or see how long you can leave it in the fridge before it grows legs and heads back to R’lyeh. Ph’nglui mglw’nafh Cthulhu R’lyeh wgah’nagl fhtagn!
Bon Appetite!

Many, many thanks to the wonderful people at Food and Culture Korea for their exceptional instruction and kindness! This post owes all its good parts to them, and any mistakes, mess ups, or ridiculousness is entirely Fatman’s fault.
우리 FatManSeoul는 이러한 이유로 한국의 최고의 음식에 대한 최고의 리뷰와 비평을 공유하고 싶습니다. FatManSeoul는 평범한 음식에서부터 고급음식까지, 강남지역 최고급 레스토랑에서부터 시골 할머니의 집에서 맛볼 수 있는 정이 깃든 찌게까지 모든 음식을 리뷰 대상으로 삼고 있습니다. 우리는 특별한 음식을 찾아 블로그를 통해 전세계에 소개할 것입니다. 또한 음식에 대한 가장 정확한 정보를 리뷰, 레시피, 인터뷰, 팟캐스트, 교재 등을 통해 제공할 것입니다. 이 모든 컨텐츠는 한국어와 영어로 제공될 것입니다. FatManSeoul is Korea's first bilingual online magazine about food. We’re committed to searching high and lo, from the poshest cuisine of Kangnam to the most humble, jeong-laden jjigae of the halmoni-jip in the countryside for the best food in the country. Come here for reviews, recipes, interviews, podcasts, tutorials, and the best, most accurate information on ingredients and methods, in Korean and in English. 같이 먹자!
AncientGoose
December 15th, 2008 at 4:14 pm
Once again, I am amazed at the wonderful instructions and efforts you made. Like you said, kimchi isn’t something hard for one to make in home. Moreover, for typical Koreans like me, when I am abroad for a while for some reason, the above pictures of kimchi, or sometimes even thinking about it relishes of kimchi although it’s usually very hard to get when we are abroad.
With your kind instructions, however, kimchi is not something one can typically enjoy only in Korea.
FYI, Kimchi relishes of strong ginger and garlic, thus one might think it’s too hard to get at. However, once you taste the real taste of kimchi, then it’s so hard to have meals without kimchi. Try~
Paul
December 15th, 2008 at 7:38 pm
Fantastic. I’m determined to give this a go over the winter break. I get depressed with bad kimchi in cheap restaurants and it would be good to have my own secret supply of the good stuff to help the long winter months pass by.
mina
December 16th, 2008 at 11:55 am
i just moved to denmark and i’m really missing my mom’s korean cooking in southern california. can’t wait to try this, but maybe i’ll wait til all of my danish roommates are out of the apartment so they won’t have to deal with the foreign smell.
oh, and i love the cthulhu references!
Jaim
December 16th, 2008 at 12:05 pm
Great post. I’d like to try this too, but I’m afraid of stinking up my apartment. My tiny studio apartment with poor ventilation, especially in the winter.
bowbiter
December 16th, 2008 at 12:17 pm
I’m with Jaim…but luckily I have a local place i can go buy fresh kimchi at so only my fridge needs to stink
fatmanseoul
December 16th, 2008 at 2:01 pm
Most of the ingredients actually don’t have that strong a smell, and because this recipe makes small batches you probably won’t be so overwhelmed. While making a batch, try a few of these tricks . . . burning a candle (particularly the kind designed to neutralize odors) while doing most of your chopping will help eliminate some of the garlic and onion fumes. Also, if you clean up right away the smell will dissipate relatively quickly – and fresh kimchi doesn’t smell nearly as potent as older, more sour kimchi. Use a little vinegar and baking soda, and most of the odor will vanish. If there’s still any odor, Fatman adds a little bit of cinnamon to a kettle of water, or a sprig of rosemary or cinnamon and lets the odor diffuse with the steam from the boiling water.
fatmanseoul
December 16th, 2008 at 2:02 pm
Storebought kimchi will never be able to compete with homemade . . . it’s just better, and you can tailor the flavor profile to suit your own tastes.
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December 16th, 2008 at 3:57 pm
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ambitious
December 17th, 2008 at 6:28 am
Hello Fat Man Seoul,
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this post. Sometimes, you have to keep the reader entertained
One day I will attempt this…. one day.
jeanny
December 18th, 2008 at 10:00 am
I’m surprised more people haven’t commented on the vast range of different kimchis out there!
And the fact that most people prefer the type of kimchi they grew up with … I sometimes really crave my mother’s cabbage kimchi, and no one else’s cabbage kimchi will do.
I reluctantly agreed with my father that I will have to learn the ways of my mother’s kimchi. He’s insistent that someone other that Mom know how (I think it’s because she left for three weeks and he was stranded, kimchi-less).
I have to say, I’ve never seen a Korean ajumma make less than a giant vat of kimchi. I think I would prefer to learn to make small batches! Thanks for the many photos and detailed (and funny!) instructions.
fatmanseoul
December 18th, 2008 at 10:19 am
Someday fatman will prepare a post that talks about the different kinds of kimchi, but for the intro we just wanted to cover the most common kimchi out there, and give a good basic recipe with lots of room to maneuver. Each person, each family, and each region puts their own spin on things, which is why it’s important to try and preserve them – as more and more people shop at supermarkets and buy ready-made kimchi, some of the variety is disappearing.
fatmanseoul
December 18th, 2008 at 10:28 am
The reason people think you have to make gigantic, enormous, ridiculous amounts of kimchi all at once is because of 김장/kimjang, the period in the late fall when any remaining cabbages had to be used up before they wilted in the fields. By making enormous amounts at once, Koreans could make enough kimchi to last the entire winter until the first crops came up in the spring. However, making smaller batches throughout the year is not only possible, but really practical for just about everybody who enjoys kimchi.
Jeanny
December 30th, 2008 at 3:35 pm
I was inspired by your post to detail the step-by-step instructions for my mother’s cabbage kimchi. I can’t believe what an ordeal it is to take pictures and write up a post… and now I know why I don’t do it!
Thanks for the kick in the rear to actually do it, though. It was fun! My mom and I had a good time, despite the many (thousands? It felt like thousands) steps to make one of several side dishes we eat every day.
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fatmanseoul
January 1st, 2009 at 12:55 pm
wonderful!
Fatman benefited from the generosity of Food and Culture Korea, who were kind enough to let us photograph at their institute, saving us a messy kitchen and freeing our hands for photography.
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