FatManSeoul

Let’s face it: If you’re looking for Mexican food in Korea, you don’t have much territory to cover. Although there’s a number of new eateries that cater to your need for tacos, the cuisine really hasn’t caught on south of this particular border. American chain On the Border has made some big inroads, with two locations now open and proving popular in Seoul.

But is it worth the hype?

Closely recreating the colorful tex-mex interiors most North Americans will be familiar with, the decor is gaudy and fun, which pretty much sums up the service as well. Most of the wait staff here speak passable English, which they are eager to show off as they deliver your menu, chips, and salsa. The in-house chips are thin and crispy, and while the salsa could use a little more chunk, it still delivers a punch of fresh tomato and a mild lingering spice. You could probably fill up just on chips and salsa without ever ordering anything. Starters and salads run the gamut, from a chicken tortilla soup with a good, solid chicken flavor and crunchy strips of corn tortilla marred by undercooked vegetables and under-ripe avocado, to heavy platters of gooey, cheesy, deep fried empanadas that burst with seasoned ground beef or chicken. The regular guacamole is a hum-drum affair, but the (significantly) more expensive version made tableside boasts much more interesting texture and bolder flavors.


Mains come in gut-busting portions on gigantic platters with sides of “mexican” rice and refried or black beans. Enchiladas, burritos, tacos, and fajitas dominate, rounded out with the odd chimichanga. Most main courses give you the choice of beef or chicken, with fish and carne asada popping up here and there. OtB is certainly one of the very few (if not only) places in Seoul where you can find that beachside favorite, fish tacos. All tacos are available in either hard or soft shells.

Fajitas are a big favorite here, coming with soft tortillas for wrapping and a reasonable selection of toppings to pile on. The staff is usually quite nice about giving a few extra tortillas on request.

The kitchen usually sends out competent renditions of these stalworts, but there are a few problems: First, consistency is sometimes lacking, and the restaurant is generally busy enough that getting problems corrected (particularly if you come in a large group, as seems to be the norm there) can take ages, if at all. The flavors are decent, but there’s a lack of freshness in the vegetables especially. Getting the right ingredients and seasonings is hard here in Korea, but too often the food tastes uninspiring and canned. The biggest problem is over-salting: Many of the dishes taste so strongly of table salt that it’s hard to perceive any other flavors underneath (the fish tacos and ground beef seasoning being the biggest offenders.) In other words, it’s typical chain restaurant food with an extra heaping portion of salt.
There’s an extensive drink menu focusing on margaritas and Mexican beers. The margaritas come in a wide variety of zany flavors and generally pack quite a punch. Customers can even chose between regular and “premium” tequila. Desserts are the usual uninspired family fare of brownies ala mode and gooey cakes.
There’s a fine line to walk when it comes to the ratio of portion to price. On the Border has gigantic portions that will stuff all but the largest stomachs, but expect prices in line with any of the family restaurants like TGIF or Bennigans. In short, you’ll be well fed when you’ve scarfed down your last taco shell, but you’ll be shelling out a lot. Lunch features the most reasonable prices, with combos beginning around 10,000 won, but a regular serving at dinner will set you back at least 15,000 won, and you should really count on spending at least 20-30,000 won not counting drinks. Let’s be blunt – this is highway robbery. But with so few choices in the tex-mex arena, it may sometimes be worth having one’s wallet raided by restaurant banditos to get your fajita fix.