FatManSeoul

Hey, everybody has their obsessions. Fatman’s just happens to be tracking down the best and most unusual takes on the street food stalwort of 떡볶이. And we believe we’ve found something truly special at 효자동 옛날 떡볶이 (Hyoja-dong Old Fashioned Ddeokpokki).

One of the many hole-in-the-wall places in Tongin Market (통인시장), this ddokslinging stall serves two unique styles of ddeokpokki you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. The first is a variation of the original ddeokpokki that developed in the royal cuisine of the palaces, where pieces of plain ddeok (가래떡) were simmered in a soy-based sauce for a salty, savory dish. This version is stripped down though, with very slender, small pieces of gareddeok marinated in a garlicy soy sauce, but not cooked in it. Instead, the slightly salty sticks are panfried in front of you for a savory and chewy treat.

For those who love the large pieces of grilled gareddeok that appear at street stalls during the winter, this is like an extra-special bite-sized all-season treat. The well-seasoned grill helps the ddeok pick up a wonderful crisp exterior, while the inside becomes soft and tender. The small size of the ddeok lend it the perfect ratio of cruncy and chewy.

Don’t fill up just yet though. The proprietress has one more trick up her sleeve: Spicy Ddeokpokki.
Usually ddeokpokki is made by simmering the gareddeok in a mixture of hot pepper powder, brown sugar, garlic, and water or broth. The ddeok swell up as they absorb the sauce, and the liquid condenses slowly. Street vendors maintain consistency by adding more liquid periodically, so the sauce is relatively wet. The liquid also keeps the ddeok soft and tender, and swells them to the size we’re accustomed to.
Here, the ddeokpokki is made with a dry sauce, no liquid added. Instead, a dry rub takes its place, giving the ddeok a much more intense and spicy flavor. There’s no 오댕 (odeng: fish patty) or veggies to take away from the slow burn of the pepper paste and the addictive cruncy-chewy interplay of the ddeok.

For the faint of heart (or tastebuds), the ajuma will also mix the two together for a slightly more nuanced flavor. Either way, this ddeokpokki is a very tasty treat, and one you won’t find anywhere else. The style is unique to the neighborhood, and Fatman makes a tip of the fat hat to Roboseyo for introducing us to it.
To get there and try it yourself, take exit 2 from Gyeongbok Station (경복역) on line 3, and walk straight. Tongin Market will be on your left. A single serving of either style costs a mere 2500 won.