seoul food for people who love to eat
The Wall Street Journal ran an interesting article on the expansion of Dunkin’ Donuts in Korea today, saying that the chain was looking to almost double the number of stores in South Korea, along with turn Koreans into morning coffee drinkers. We ask you, do Koreans really need any help with that?
There’s a few problems with the article, which confuses older and widespread promotional schemes like loyalty cards with new efforts. We’re also wondering where we can get those delicious-sounding soy doughnuts the article promises (we’re pretty sure they’re either talking about the pat-filled ones, or have confused them with the much-missed tofu doughnuts from Mister Doughnut) and note that like loyalty cards, seasonal and locally-oriented products have long been part of marketing the product here, and not just for DD. We really had to get a quote from a young woman saying that it’s cool that they used one of the biggest TV stars for their commercial? Is this kind of advertising surprising to anyone whose lived here for more than five minutes?
But the biggest mistake here may be the idea that Koreans don’t really jive with coffee yet, and that the new commercials and roastery mean an attempt to create a new market, rather than cater to one that already exists. They’re not aquiring new tastes, but having the ones they already have catered to.
Let’s get this clear: Koreans love coffee.
And not just any coffee ~ fancy, freshly roasted, hand dripped, 6000 won cups of organic pleasure. Offices across the land are equipped with drip coffee makers and instant packets. Men and women from Uijeongbu to Mokpo meet, date, chat, study, and work over cups of coffee. And frankly, Fatman wishes the WSJ would tell Koreans that they’re not supposed to like coffee in the morning on the way to work, so we could get our cup of joe without waiting forever in line behind all those locals who apparently don’t need their morning fix.
What the article (and apparently the upper management) failed to grasp is not that Koreans are being persuaded into new consumption habits or using new marketing strategies, but that the place and meaning of Dunkin’ Donuts (and many other western chains) is radically different here. Koreans won’t grab doughnuts and run because that’s not what DD is here for. People grab and run with doughnuts from the stateside branches because they’re older, uncomfortable, unwelcoming, and built to make people leave. If the international management is trying to encourage their Korean customers to do the same, they’ve got a lot of remodeling to do to make their stores nasty enough to make the office workers want to get up and leave . . .
So, hungry readers, what do you think? Was the WSJ off the mark? Is DD’s international management out of the loop? And are there really soy bean doughnuts in the case?
Tip of the fat hat to B in J (Again. Doesn’t he ever sleep? How does he always find these things first?)
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Jaim
June 4th, 2009 at 8:07 pm
Well written. I especially liked this line:
“the place and meaning of Dunkin’ Donuts (and many other western chains) is radically different here”
True dat. My own favorite example (since I live next to one in Apgujong) is Hooter’s. Tacky red-neck creepy place in the States, relatively classy and “nice” joint in Korea. (Although I’ve never been to one in either country.)
Brian
June 4th, 2009 at 8:30 pm
Thanks for the link.
I have my sources.
They’re just not as good as the WSJ’s, apparently.
Brian
June 4th, 2009 at 8:36 pm
About Koreans loving coffee . . . I dunno, I haven’t looked into it, but isn’t coffee more of a treat here, a dessert, than a pick-me-up? I’m not talking about the Maxim sticks, I mean the “drip coffee” available at the chains.
I’m also wondering how many Koreans own coffeemakers. I have one, and they obviously sell since they have them in the grocery stores (even if they don’t always sell the coffee to go along with it). I second your point about not encouraging Koreans to get their fix in the morning . . . I don’t need to wait 25 minutes in line.
Personally, I like just making coffee at home in the morning, and use coffeeshops for a place to sit and read. I like it that way, and I see no reason to change it. I’d hate to see Koreans change just for the sake of change, adopting a habit just because they’re told to by TV (we’ll see how that goes, though; after all, look at the popularity of these chains here.)
fatmanseoul
June 5th, 2009 at 11:56 am
Fatman has some pretty wide feet, and we have to say that the majority of people we know here drink coffee like it’s going out of style. Many offices now have drip coffee makers, and office workers of our aquiantance grumble about needing the caffeine jolt to stay alert on the job. We also note that there’s usually a line of people at Krispy Kreme, Pascussi, and Starbucks in the mornings before work, and many of those people are getting their coffee to go. However, it’s important to note that this is in Seoul, and the same trend may not be as well established or as prominent in other parts of the country. In fact, we’d be surprised if the denizens of Mokpo and Donghae and Gongju and Pohang were as accustomed to coffee as part of morning routine, considering that there are fewer chains and fewer individual stores. Getting a cup of Starbucks coffee on your way to work is easy in Seoul, but requires a more extensive trip if you’re in Yeosu.
We also should have pointed out in our response that differences in commute and driving culture also have an impact. It’s another reason why McD’s and other places may seem to have less interest in their breakfasts.
bowbiter
June 5th, 2009 at 1:58 pm
coffee and korea are made for each other and have been since way before i was there in 2001. they may not have drip coffee but they are always have the instant coffee packs readily available. they also go out frequently and get coffee for short meetings before/after meals. and given their typically small kitchen counter space i really cant blame them for not having coffee makers at home.
Street Foodie
June 5th, 2009 at 9:42 pm
Its not the same, but our school practically runs on that jardin instant coffee you get in convenience stores, the stuff with the white milk powder inside? I have to admit a secret addiction there to be honest…
3gyupsal
June 8th, 2009 at 3:45 pm
Coffee is an interesting subject here. I first came here to Seoul in 04 and back then there were places like “the coffeebean,” as well as the ubiquitous dunkins, then I moved to Jinju, in 05 and there were 4 dunkins at that time, but all of the local coffee shops only made espresso drinks with a bunch of sugar in them. (No starbucks, only hollys.) In 07, the first local coffee shop to make melitta dripped coffee opened, they also roasted their own beans, soon after that another one like that opened, and then finally in 08 a starbucks opened.
I have also bean (pun intended) following the devolopment of Mr. Donut in Korea. I think the first was in Myeong dong in 2008. (This was a highly anticipated event for me, but I was disapointed that they don’t give free refils, or offer the delicious 왕 만두, like the one’s in Japan.) I’m also very happy about the opening of the Mr. Donut in the Bexco Shinsege department store. (Great for me, don’t have to bus 4 hours to the bright and shining town of Myeong dong, in that otherwise vomitous megalopolis of sin some people like to call Seoul*. Instead I just have to go 2 hours to the vomitous den of sin called Busan, but at least they have an ocean.) All that for a cup of coffee.
*I actually enjoy my trips to Seoul, I just like to complain about it when I am not there. But yes I am quite pleased that I don’t have to go all the way there if I want Mr. Donut.
danny
June 10th, 2009 at 10:01 pm
I think the WSJ take on the caffeine culture was accurate Fatman. Generally, Koreans aren’t in line for coffee as a morning pick-me-up, the way we are in the West. Breakfast, according to my students for the past 7 years is still soup and rice. Coffee is a luxury item, that like the article alludes to , is related to the ‘young office worker sect’. It is Dunkin Int’l CEO Nigel blah blah, who wants to change this.
Probably in Seoul, this might be a trendy thing for younger people with some money, but my experience in Busan is still much in line with traditional thinking. That is, coffee is a bad thing. It’s ok to drink instant coffee after meals as part of a social situation, but, as a general, no one grabs their donuts and coffee to go.
fatmanseoul
June 11th, 2009 at 10:03 am
Danny, if you’ll read our earlier comments, we address just this issue: Trends begin in Seoul and then spread outward, and usually young people will take to them first. Even in Busan though, I’m sure you’ll agree that there are lots of coffee shops and lots of people consuming coffee throughout the day. Grabbing it on the go may be harder, as we said. We think that the article inaccurately represents Koreans as being less accustomed to coffee than they really are, rather than being less inclined (and not uninclined – witness the morning rush at Starbucks and other chain coffee shops) to drink it on the go because of structural considerations. We would also say that what DD’s management seems to think is a problem behavior that needs to be altered is in reality not a problem at all – else why would the stores already established be so successful?
annamatic
June 12th, 2009 at 7:57 pm
I was in Jeonju a couple of weekends ago and I have to say, even in that comparatively smaller town, the cute cafe trend was thriving. Definitely agree, it’s not the coffee that Koreans are opposed to, it’s just that in general Koreans aren’t accustomed to eating or drinking anything on their own, an certainly not in transit. It’s all about sitting down and eat/drinking it together with a gang of friends… DD has such tiny shops with tiny tables; seems like they’re only viable from the hours of 12:30-1:30, when the office crowd picks up coffee on the way back to work…
fatmanseoul
June 12th, 2009 at 11:12 pm
the driving culture also has an impact, we think – no drive through and no convenient parking make it a pain to grab a cup o’ joe on the go.