Got that? The best, bar none.
While cupcakes haven’t yet taken over every bakery, cafe, coffee shop, and biker bar in Seoul the same way waffles have, they’re on the cusp of being a major trend. You can get them in department stores and upscale chain bakeries, and even a few specialty stores, like Lamb in Samcheongdong.
Fatman is telling you to forget about all of those. They’re not worthy!
Why not? Start with cupcakes that are more muffin than cake, with a dryer, grainier crumb than a proper cake. Then, top it off with a mountain of sugary frosting sweet enough to make anybody gag, and you’ve got the typical overpriced Seoul cupcake.
Not here though . . .

Absenthe’s cupcakes are exactly what they ought to be ~ miniature cakes, moist and flavorful. There’s everything from traditional favorites like chocolate and peanut butter swirl to more indigenous Korean flavors like sweet red bean (팥/pat) and bukbunja (복분자) to creative mixes like expresso and absinthe matched with frostings of a richness unimaginable and unobtainable in most Korean bakeries.

Buttercream, baby, buttercream. Rich, wonderful, velvety, caloric buttercream. And when they put red velvet cupcakes on the menu, they’re real red velvet cakes with real cream cheese frosting, not some nonsense that’s been dyed red with some white sugar gunk on top. Apple-cinnamon cupcakes likewise benefit from a judicious and tangy kick of cream cheese. But Fatman’s personal favorite is the Love Hawaii:

A sweet tropical cupcake topped with coconut creme anglaise and peach sauce, with a delicate lei of buttercream flowers, it may well be the most decadent dessert in all of Seoul. If there’s another one out there . . .well, Fatman’s ever-expanding waistline doesn’t want to know. This is enough.

Except it’s not. To support their delicious line of cupcakes, Cafe Absenthe also serves up a great variety of hand-drip coffee, espresso drinks, non-coffee drinks, and coffee-based cocktails. Some of their choices, like a rich vanilla drinking custard, are absolutely unique in Seoul. You’ll certainly not find a more meltingly rich hot chocolate anywhere else. Their menu is always changing and expanding, so check the menu when you get there. Or don’t. Just ask their very knowledgable barrista/barkeeper, or the charming owner. They’ll point you to just the right cupcake and drink to match.

Cupcakes are 4,500 won (just like every other cupcake in Seoul), and drinks start at 5,000 won. Absinthe is 13,000 won a glass.

Absinthe is tucked away in a side street near Gyeongbokgung Station. Take exit 3 and walk straight for about five minutes until you reach a four way intersection with an organic coffee shop and a Kodak store on the right hand side. Turn right at the intersection, then a left down the first alleyway, next to the plant store. Go straight (past Kohei Cafe/Gallery) until you reach a three-way intersection, and Cafe Absinthe will be on your right at the fork.

p.s. Seriously, India ranks above Korea? The place of which you write: “Your best bet: You’ll probably do better just sticking to the tasty chai here”?

The Wall Street Journal ran an interesting article on the expansion of Dunkin’ Donuts in Korea today, saying that the chain was looking to almost double the number of stores in South Korea, along with turn Koreans into morning coffee drinkers. We ask you, do Koreans really need any help with that?

There’s a few problems with the article, which confuses older and widespread promotional schemes like loyalty cards with new efforts. We’re also wondering where we can get those delicious-sounding soy doughnuts the article promises (we’re pretty sure they’re either talking about the pat-filled ones, or have confused them with the much-missed tofu doughnuts from Mister Doughnut) and note that like loyalty cards, seasonal and locally-oriented products have long been part of marketing the product here, and not just for DD. We really had to get a quote from a young woman saying that it’s cool that they used one of the biggest TV stars for their commercial? Is this kind of advertising surprising to anyone whose lived here for more than five minutes?

But the biggest mistake here may be the idea that Koreans don’t really jive with coffee yet, and that the new commercials and roastery mean an attempt to create a new market, rather than cater to one that already exists.  They’re not aquiring new tastes, but having the ones they already have catered to.

Let’s get this clear: Koreans love coffee.

And not just any coffee ~ fancy, freshly roasted, hand dripped, 6000 won cups of organic pleasure. Offices across the land are equipped with drip coffee makers and instant packets. Men and women from Uijeongbu to Mokpo meet, date, chat, study, and work over cups of coffee. And frankly, Fatman wishes the WSJ would tell Koreans that they’re not supposed to like coffee in the morning on the way to work, so we could get our cup of joe without waiting forever in line behind all those locals who apparently don’t need their morning fix.

What the article (and apparently the upper management) failed to grasp is not that Koreans are being persuaded into new consumption habits or using new marketing strategies, but that the place and meaning of Dunkin’ Donuts (and many other western chains) is radically different here. Koreans won’t grab doughnuts and run because that’s not what DD is here for. People grab and run with doughnuts from the stateside branches because they’re older, uncomfortable, unwelcoming, and built to make people leave. If the international management is trying to encourage their Korean customers to do the same, they’ve got a lot of remodeling to do to make their stores nasty enough to make the office workers want to get up and leave . . .

So, hungry readers, what do you think? Was the WSJ off the mark? Is DD’s international management out of the loop? And are there really soy bean doughnuts in the case?

Tip of the fat hat to B in J (Again. Doesn’t he ever sleep? How does he always find these things first?)

Mammoth Bakery is just off the main square in downtown Andong, near the Pizza Hutt and Shinhan Bank. Baked goods start from 1,000 won, with cakes starting in the 15,000 range, sandwiches around 3,500 won, and espresso drinks are very reasonably priced at around 3,500 as well.

Read more about places to wine and dine in Andong over at our Hub of Sparkle write-up!

UPDATE:  Fatman just had our own special repeat of Stafford’s problem – a latte with only a smattering of foam to insulate our coffee.  Not cool, evil corporate entity!

Within the neatly segmented interior space, a variety of seating options give a choice between snuggling on a sofa, sitting Korean style on the floor, or sitting at more conventional tables and chairs. A differently designed space might have trouble accommodating the different styles, but clever adaptation of the existing structure gives Song’s Kitchen a homey, organic feel.

Equally eclectic but comforting is their take on food. While the menu is limited and mostly aimed at folks who are nibbling and noshing their way home after work, most of what’s there is competently executed. Italian fare like pizza and pasta stand alongside seafood and kimchi fried rice and a warming mess of ddeok, seafood, and cheese inside an whole roasted pumpkin set the tone for hearty snacks to share with coworkers and friends. While not exceptionally sophisticated or creative, the food matches the cheery atmosphere well, and the drink list even better. Tea, juice, and coffee sit side by side with a limited wine and beer list, and a funky set of cocktails. While most places concentrate on trendy mixed drinks, the most interesting mixes here tend to be beer based, including Fatman’s favorite coffee beer combo (although their sangria ain’t half bad either . . .)

Desserts here are a little bit funkier, a little bit more fun than the usual waffle and ice cream combos. Sure, there’s topped waffles here to satisfy your sweet tooth, but a little more care has gone into their creation. Instead of going with the fad for dense, bread-y, overcooked “Belgian” waffles slathered with syrups and topped with whatever sweets were on hand, the Song’s Kitchen rendition shows a little more style. The waffles are smaller and thinner than the competition, but miles away in texture and taste. They may not have the plumpness of a Belgian waffle, nor the airiness of the street waffles, but they have the right balance of fluff and butter to make for an outstanding compromise. And unlike most, they stay tender and slightly chewy instead of instantly settling into gummy awfulness. The fruit selection that comes with them is very fresh and leans towards the tart rather than sweet, and the organic ice cream on the side is a smooth balancing touch that keeps from overloading the palate. The baked apple ring on top lends a little needed crunch to the proceedings.

Prices here are middling, with most entrees running in the 15-20,000 won range since the food is expected to be shared. Plates meant for individuals run a more modest 5-10,000 won, as do desserts. Drink prices are typical, with beer and cocktails running around 5-10,000 each, and wines starting about 30,000 a bottle.

To get to Song’s Kitchen, take line 4 to Hanseong University. Go straight out exit 6, and walk for approximately twenty minutes. Song’s Kitchen is below the elevated walkway on the right hand side, with the roof sign visible from the road.

My tentative theory: Having a significant Starbucks presence is a pretty significant indicator of the degree of connectedness to the form of highly caffeinated, free-spending capitalism that got us into this mess. It’s also a sign of a culture’s willingness to abandon traditional norms and ways of doing business (virtually all the countries in which Starbucks has established beachheads have their own venerable coffee-house traditions) in favor of fast-moving American ones. The fact that the company or its local licensee felt there was room for dozens of outlets where consumers would pony up lots of euros, liras, and rials for expensive drinks is also a pretty good indicator that excessive financial optimism had entered the bloodstream.

If this is true, Seoul is in for some bad times; there’s a whopping 172 locations here, with nearly another hundred throughtout the rest of the country.  Better downgrade to a grande.

Kaya, it turns out, is also a delicious treat from Southeast Asia. This dense coconut custard-style jam is a green, creamy delight that Singaporeans and Malaysians have long been using to top their toast. Taken with thick, sweet coffee or tea, it’s a quintessential breakfast treat made with coconut, eggs, and pandan or sugar. And with Seoul seeing an explosion of international foods and chains opening their doors to our hungry citizens, it was only a matter of time before this oozy treat made its way to our streets.

Kopitiam Kaya Toast gives you kaya toast done up in several different styles: Thick or thin, with kaya, chocolate spread, cheese, or peanut butter. Fatman’s particular favorite is the thin kaya toast for the crispy and toothsome wholemeal toast sliced razor thin to cradle thick slabs of salty butter that melt dreamily into the custard-y kaya. The bread is just chewy and crispy enough to make chewing a joy of contrasting texture against the gooey insides, and the saltiness of the butter adds a key savory note to keep it all from being overwhelmingly sweet. While those in Singapore and Malaysia may treat this as a way to start their day, Seoulites have turned this into a hopping spot for afternoon munching and evening lounging.
In addition to toast, Kopitiam offers the usual range of coffee and tea drinks at the usual prices. Still, if you’re looking to complete your experience, there’s a small selection of drinks done ala Singapore. Both the coffee and teas are exceptionally thick and strong and sweet. Brace yourself, they are big and bold even when served in small cups. They’re not merely bracing, they’re practically a meal in and of themselves.

Kopitiam Kaya Toast has opened two stores in Seoul: The first is at Chonggye 2-ga, overlooking the stream, and the second is just outside exit 2 of Ewha Women’s University Station as you head towards the campus. Both aim for a chill, exotic vibe with lots of rough-hewn planking and ceiling fans to recall the steamy South Asian climate, and are strewn with magazines singing the praises of the city-state. Toast starts at 2500 won, and coffee and tea drinks start from 3000 won.
Their rival chain, Ya Kun, also runs two stores here in Seoul: One in the basement of the Seoul Financial Building (City Hall Station, lines 2 and 4), and the other in the basement of the Kangnam Finance Center.

Lots of eateries in Korea straddle the line between cafe and bar and restaurant. They may not have full menus, full bars, or even much in the way of bean based beverages, but their appeal lies in having a little of them all. A bit of coffee or tea, a limited wine, beer and liquor menu with a few anju (snacks) and a few mains can make for a great evening out with friends, keeping everybody fueled and happy.

한국에서 먹을 거리를 파는 곳 대부분은 카페, 바 그리고 음식점의 구분을 두지 않는다. 그곳은 일반 음식점이나 바처럼 모든 메뉴가 다 있는 것은 아니며, 때로는 음료만을 주로 판매하는 곳도 있다. 하지만 바로 이런 점이 많은 사람들에게 매력을 느끼게 한다. 적은 종류의 커피나 차, 그리고 약간의 안주와 제한된 종류의 포도주, 맥주 같은 주류, 그리고 약간의 메인 요리. 이러한 것이 친구들과 함께 그곳을 찾은 많은 사람들에게 멋진 저녁을 선사한다. 그들은 그곳에서 휴식을 취하며 삶의 활기를 되찾는다.

Song’s Kitchen, a small bar-cum-cafe near Hanseong University Station (line 4) does one better than the usual with their special house drink combing the best of both worlds: Coffee and beer, united in perfect harmony. The coffee/beer combo drink may sound strange, but the flavors pair perfectly. The bright, almost citrus notes of the beer lend lightness and effervescence, and the coffee gives the drink depth and richness. Here it’s made with a domestic lager, but Fatman recommends experimenting at home with other brews. Try it with a nice, creamy porter or stout for a deeper, almost chocolate taste or mix a bright morning blend with a wheat beer for a zingy combo.

한성대역(4호선) 근처에 바와 카페를 결합한, “Song’s Kitchen”은 그곳만의 특별한 음료를 판매한다. 바로 커피와 맥주를 섞은 음료인데, 아주 완벽한 조화를 이룬다. 커피맥주라고 하면 약간 이상하게 들릴 수도 있지만, 맛은 기가 막히다. 맥주의 감귤 향은 음료를 더 부드럽고 거품이 많도록 해주며, 커피는 더욱 깊은 맛을 내게 해준다. 여기에 있는 것은 국산 라거맥주로 만든 것인데, Fatman은 다른 종류의 맥주로 집에서 실험을 한번 해보길 바란다. 초콜릿 맛에 가까울 정도의 깊은 맛을 원한다면 거품이 많은 흑맥주나 스타우트를, 매력적인 맛을 원한다면 모닝블렌드와 밀맥주를 혼합하면 된다.