Sure, the Korean team may have been knocked out of the World Cup, but you can always enjoy a cup of makgeolli in consolation.  Or, take a more celebratory tone by turning your attention to the Makgeolli World Cup ~ this clever cafe on Naver has matched different makgeolli with different countries for a showdown that leaves everyone a winner.  Check out the current rankings here, and try some at home for your own special world cup experience!    Or, head down to your local makgeolli bar (Fatman recommends 친친 in 홍대) to cheer along.

Baesangmyun Brewery, the maker of one of the leading brands of makgeolli, said that it has opened a micro-brewery in southern Seoul around its head office where visitors can buy and take out fresh makgeolli.

The Seoul-based outfit plants to establish around 10 more miniature breweries at the capital by the end of 2010 where the takeout makgeolli will go on sale just like the Starbucks outlets.

Ok, the comparison to Starbucks is not quite the right one.  After all, you’re probably not allowed to imbibe a cup o’ makgeolli on your way to work in the morning.  But it is both new and delightfully old fashioned at the same time, and Fatman is kind of enamoured of Baesangmyeon‘s idea.

You see, kiddies, way back when Fatman was merely a Fatchild ( . . .ok, maybe before we were even a Fatglimmerinourmother’seye) makgeolli was not a drink you got out of a plastic bottle.  It was made fresh and delightful, either at home in an ardous process, or by a local brewer with local ingredients, giving it its own sense of terroire.   Essentially, makgeolli was all micro-brew made in a process Michael Pollan would adore, a locavore‘s dream.  The Japanese colonial administration and later Korean administrations passed laws and regulations that significantly hampered the production of high-quality local makgeollis, and the drink is just now recovering its rightful status.

And part of that status depends on it being consumed fresh.  Really, really fresh, in comparison to most alcoholic drinks.  It’s not like a wine that benefits from aging; the sooner you get it after it’s brewed, the better.  That’s why they have expiration dates printed on them ~ makgeolli goes bad quite quickly.  Assuming all other things are equal, a fresh draft makgeolli is going to taste better than one that’s been in a bottle on the supermarket shelf for a while.   We have to say, this seems like a pretty darned good idea.

So, anybody up for a trip to check this out?

Boys and girls, there’s no need to fight, and Fatman is fairly sure there’s enough love of the liquor in Korea to keep both drinks around.  Of course, beer manufacturers should note that their domestic products have only slightly more flavor than what comes out our taps, and makgeolli has blossomed in part because of a real increase in quality over the past few decades.

So, ladies, gentlemen, and football hooligans:  What are you quaffing when the game is on?

Places to drink in Seoul tend to fall into discrete categories:  The chicken hof, the trendy cocktail bar, the neighborhood beer pub . . . looking for something outside these is often a challenge, and there’s a dearth of mid-range pubs in particular.  Trying to find something sophisticated that won’t break the bank, or a place that serves a decent range of food and drink is not an easy task in Seoul, where atmosphere comes only at a price, and restaurants and bars usually have specialized and narrow menus.

Morac, a newly-renovated Korean-style bistro in Gwangwhamun, is one of the very few restaurants in Seoul to achieve a balance between atmosphere and price, without sacrificing selection.  The location is especially nice, in the center of downtown Seoul and within walking distance of half the subways lines in Seoul.  They’ve done a spectacular job with the renovation, with multiple areas within the restaurant decorated in different styles that still manage to form a coherent whole.  With warm colors and big slanted windows, the interior manages to be welcoming despite its size, making it a good choice for both large parties and smaller, more intimate groups.  The style is modern, with a decided nod towards Korean tradition in the colors and patterns used, right down to the plates and bowls.

Morac has a wide, if not extensive, selection of alcohols, from wine and beer to makgeolli, with occasional specials and tasting menus to highlight particular genres.  This makes them ideal for groups with varying tastes, and gives lots of flexibility to the menu for matching foods and drink.

The menu changes yearly, but the CIA-educated chef turns out solid bistro fare, with an emphasis on meats and salads.  Although the food tends to be substantive, there’s a definite feminine edge on many of the foods, including the carnivorous offerings.  The seared beef belly in soy-based sauce, for example, has the sort of mouth-filling meat flavor people crave, but its thin cut, delicate sauce, and accompanying greens give it a sprightly edge.  The seafood pancakes, likewise, have a chunkier, more recognizable seafood flavor to them than many places, but the dish still manages to feel a little bit brighter and lighter despite this.  Morac’s version of dalkgalbi, spicy sizzling vege-chicken, may not have the depth of flavor and rich sense of melding together that more traditional versions have, but the individual flavors and spices stand out more distinctly and precisely, for an almost dainty take on the dish.  The mushroom trio and fresh salad bibimbap also stands out for its refined flavors and sensitive take on what is usually a heavy bowl of rice and vegetables.  This version instead feels light and airy, and retains its salad elements even as it manages to fill your stomach.  The only thing to watch is a tendency for some of the dishes to be slightly greasy, but it’s not really a barrier when there’s a little alcohol to cut through.

In the end, Morac is a welcome entry to the Seoul restaurant and bistro scene, having reasonably priced specials, well-thought out food offerings with an unexpected and pleasant feminine touch, and a selection of beverages that will leave nearly everyone in your party satisfied.  You could bring family or business associates during the day, and make it the location for your company dinner or date in the evening with equal aplomb.

As mentioned before, a version of this review appeared in the December issue of Groove Magazine. As such, it follows slightly different format than our usual reviews, and we were invited by the restaurant to conduct the review (id est they knew we were coming and we didn’t shell out our own cash for multiple visits.)

Got that? The best, bar none.
While cupcakes haven’t yet taken over every bakery, cafe, coffee shop, and biker bar in Seoul the same way waffles have, they’re on the cusp of being a major trend. You can get them in department stores and upscale chain bakeries, and even a few specialty stores, like Lamb in Samcheongdong.
Fatman is telling you to forget about all of those. They’re not worthy!
Why not? Start with cupcakes that are more muffin than cake, with a dryer, grainier crumb than a proper cake. Then, top it off with a mountain of sugary frosting sweet enough to make anybody gag, and you’ve got the typical overpriced Seoul cupcake.
Not here though . . .

Absenthe’s cupcakes are exactly what they ought to be ~ miniature cakes, moist and flavorful. There’s everything from traditional favorites like chocolate and peanut butter swirl to more indigenous Korean flavors like sweet red bean (팥/pat) and bukbunja (복분자) to creative mixes like expresso and absinthe matched with frostings of a richness unimaginable and unobtainable in most Korean bakeries.

Buttercream, baby, buttercream. Rich, wonderful, velvety, caloric buttercream. And when they put red velvet cupcakes on the menu, they’re real red velvet cakes with real cream cheese frosting, not some nonsense that’s been dyed red with some white sugar gunk on top. Apple-cinnamon cupcakes likewise benefit from a judicious and tangy kick of cream cheese. But Fatman’s personal favorite is the Love Hawaii:

A sweet tropical cupcake topped with coconut creme anglaise and peach sauce, with a delicate lei of buttercream flowers, it may well be the most decadent dessert in all of Seoul. If there’s another one out there . . .well, Fatman’s ever-expanding waistline doesn’t want to know. This is enough.

Except it’s not. To support their delicious line of cupcakes, Cafe Absenthe also serves up a great variety of hand-drip coffee, espresso drinks, non-coffee drinks, and coffee-based cocktails. Some of their choices, like a rich vanilla drinking custard, are absolutely unique in Seoul. You’ll certainly not find a more meltingly rich hot chocolate anywhere else. Their menu is always changing and expanding, so check the menu when you get there. Or don’t. Just ask their very knowledgable barrista/barkeeper, or the charming owner. They’ll point you to just the right cupcake and drink to match.

Cupcakes are 4,500 won (just like every other cupcake in Seoul), and drinks start at 5,000 won. Absinthe is 13,000 won a glass.

Absinthe is tucked away in a side street near Gyeongbokgung Station. Take exit 3 and walk straight for about five minutes until you reach a four way intersection with an organic coffee shop and a Kodak store on the right hand side. Turn right at the intersection, then a left down the first alleyway, next to the plant store. Go straight (past Kohei Cafe/Gallery) until you reach a three-way intersection, and Cafe Absinthe will be on your right at the fork.

After removing ourselves from the bar to the restaurant, we were treated to a multi-course meal of some of the most elegant food we’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. The meal was ambitious in that it sought to present Korean food as high class dining. Can we move beyond 5,000won 됀장찌개 without resorting to the stale cliches of half than 한정식 places in town? What kind of preparation and presentation would work to elevate Korean food into something that can be not just internationalized, but take the world in the same way that haute French cuisine has? Is it even possible?
Ask Fatman. We tasted the future of Korean cuisine that night at the W, and it is delicious!

Fatman’s love of 육회 is well documented, and this rendition was superlative. “Beef tartare” it may be on the menu, but this particular combination of flavors was all Korean. It was paired with Fatman’s favorite tipple of the evening, a sparkling “Opere Brut” from NV Villa Santi. While we never would have thought to pair a spumante with steak tartare, we loved the combination of the silky meat with this wine ~ it was both soft and crisp at the same time, like a tutu.

From there on, the menu turned into a guessing game, matching the W’s version against more traditional renditions of Korean dishes. Any guesses what this was?

Need a closer look? This was one of the most visually stunning dishes of the evening, with a beautiful structural element to the presentation.

Fried ginseng, chestnut, ginko nuts, jujube, wrapped in chicken . . . one dip in the gloriously rich, medicinal broth leaves its provenance as samgyetang in no doubt. Other elements of the traditional meal were brought in, but in exceedingly clever ways, like the black garlic paste on the side of the soup plate that lent the dish a little extra something.

The flavor profile is exactly that of the traditional stuffed spring chicken, but refined and tailored to a much more modern, sophisticated palate.

The next plate brought abalone risotto and chili marinated black cod, for a hot-and-mild combination. On its own, the risotto was creamy and nice, but a little underwhelming and mild. However, paired with the marvelous zing of the chili marinated cod, it worked as great soothing counter. The black cod may well have been the highlight of the evening, with a riveting sweet smokey note underneath the spice of the marinade.


The next course could serve as an object lesson for those who feel that Korean food lacks the potential for sophistication and refinement. It doesn’t get much more refined than this gorgeous seafood soup. It took a few moments to register as a variation on 매운탕, but once made, the connection was unmistakeable.

The broth had a magnificent layered seafood taste, and the seafood itself had a fresh, clean taste that really put the dish into the category of extraordinary. The individual elements all held their own, distinctive, but worked together in a way that trademarks Korean fish stews. Between the fish, the shellfish, the greens, and the little bits of ddeok tucked away underneath, it covered a whole range of textures, as well. It also had the most wonderfully fragrant wine of the evening, a 2006 Daniel Rion & Fils Bourgogne. It was a stronger wine than the bouquet suggested, and stood up to the spice, but we don’t want to drink it so much as bathe in it.

Having turned up the heat with the last few dishes, Hickey and co. cooled things off with a palate refreshing sorbet that took inspiration from sujeonggwa, the ginger, cinnamon, and persimmon punch of yore. With just a hint of rice wine underneath, this did the trick perfectly, bringing the tastebuds back to readiness with the switch in flavors, temperature, and texture. Now that we’d had a bit of a break, it was time to get down to business: Beefy business.

Let the reign of 한우 begin! Bring on the Korean beef!

The hanwoo appeared three different ways on a single plate: As a meltingly soft sirloin, slow cooked short-rib, and a stuffed zucchini. Of the three, the rich sirloin was the most western of the three in taste and presentation, but let that not dissuade you ~ it was like eating beef flavored butter, a hunk of pure meat. Stuffed vegetables of any kind offer a challenge, but the zucchini offered a nice touch of freshness and helped keep things from being to heavily meat-oriented. Finally, the slow cooked short ribs were a decadent, wonderful version of the traditional 갈비찜: soft, tender, and richly flavored.

But on to dessert . . . Chef Hickey and his team really showed their committment to and knowledge of local ingredients here at the end, starting with their pepper poached Naju pears and black sesame ice cream.

The pear was beautiful, offset by just a hint of spice from the peppercorns, but the real star was the glorious black sesame ice cream. Cool, creamy ice cream was the perfect showpiece for the rich nuttiness of the sesame, enhanced by a crisp sesame cookie. Uniting both the ice cream and the pear in a single bite made for a particularly fruitful pearing, with the slightly spicy pear working as an exciting foil for the creamy, nutty ice cream.

The evening concluded with tea, coffee, and some surprising petite fours. While petite four conjurs up images of grandma-esque miniature cakes with bad frosting, these were gorgeous Jeju hallabong jellies, these were like condensed sunshine.

Fatman would like to thank the W Hotel and the staff of the Kitchen and Woo Bar again for an amazing dining experience. Seoul offers many delicious things to eat, but few so comprehensive, so elegant, or so beautifully prepared and served. We very much hope that this evening was a token of things to come, a promissory note of more Korean notes from the W Hotel and Korean food as a whole.

To read a Korean review of the evening, let us point you to the fine food blogging of 김범수 of 팟투바하의 ‘맛있는’ 라이프 스타일. Bon appetite!

For even more pictures of the meal (what?  are you saying you don’t take hundreds of pictures of what you eat?) visit our flickr page.
(we’d also like to apologize for the unforgivable delay in getting this up! mea culpa!)

Rumor has it that Daedongkang Beer is sporadically available south of the DMZ, and Fatman would be especially thankful for some leads on where we might aquire some. Anybody know? Has anybody tried 대동강맥주 before?

In addition to their broad menu of Japanese main dishes and izakaya sides, Katsura has a very decent sake and shochu menu, as well as Japanese beers both bottled and drafted. Hope you like them, too, because Katsura also has a bizzare insistance on ordering something alcoholic with certain foods. They will not serve you okonomiyaki if you don’t down an asahi alongside, and there is no crispy Japanese-style fried chicken for dinner if you won’t swill some sake. Call them the tempura tyrants, if you like, but do indulge yourself a bit.

Lunch sets go for approximately 8-10,000 won, and ala carte items run about the same. Expect to spend 15-30,000 per person, including drinks, at dinner time.
To find Katsura, take exit 6 from Euljiro Ipgu (1-ga) Station on line 2. Go straight about twenty meters, and Katsura will be in a small recessed doorway on your left. Go all the way back for the small ground floor annex, or head immediately downstairs for the larger dining room.

So where to scratch our sushi urge in Ichon? Look no further than Yeolhae. This second-floor hideaway hosts some very talented sushi chefs who take their fish seriously. The restaurant has several private rooms for you and your guests, but the small counter is where all the action is.

The selection of fish isn’t as extensive as it is at some restaurants, but the fish here is so fresh it’s practically swimming, and expertly prepared. The salmon here  especially stands out, with none of the mushiness that sometimes develops with poorly cut or stored fish. And unlike many places, their tamago (omelet) is house made, with a prominent sake and mirin tang behind the sweetness.

The accouterments of the deal are no joke, either. The salad bites that accompany the set menu are tart and refreshing, including a silky seaweed, juicy squid, and a beautifully bite-y Korean-style jellyfish.  Korean sides like a smooth white kimchi sit side by side with brilliantly sour Japanese ostukemono (assorted pickles) and fresh, real wasabi.

In addition to their sushi and sashimi, Yeolhae has an extensive mixed menu of Japanese and Korean foods from rice bowls to tempura to soups.  Their daegutang (대구탕:  pacific cod soup) does a great job of balancing the spice with depth and richness from the seafood.  The albap (알밥:  rice with roe – usually flying fish roe) pops with briny bits and finds a bit of sweetness too from the vegetables.  Tempura likewise is well-made with excellent ingredients, if just a tad heavy on the batter.  Finish off your meal with a little fried corvina and a small plate of fruit, and you’ll be well sated.

Yeolhae is a tad on the expensive side, with rice bowls starting at 12,000 won, lunch sets at 22,000won, and dinner sets beginning at 35,000 won. One of their more elaborate sushi plates can easily run over 100,000 won, but the quality here is enough to justify the expense. Unless you’re dining with a big group, try and sit at the counter so you can chat with the chefs, who will point you towards the best catch of the day.  Patrons here tend to be a bit older, a fact reflected in the drink menu which tends heavily towards whiskey, scotch, and traditional alcohols from around Asia.  If you’re adventurous, try the sake infused with roasted fish fins for a strangely satisfying savory tipple.
To get to Yeolhae, take exit 4 from Ichon Station and walk straight out the exit to the main street. Turn left and go one block, and Yeolhae will be on the right hand side of the street on the second floor, above the Mr. Pizza.