Fatman has already expounded on CJ Food’s recent entry into the international restaurant sphere with BiBiGo.  Fortunately, Fatman’s wonderful friends stepped in to supplement our interest in the chain by reviewing their new location in Los Angeles, California.  Let’s have a big, hearty round of applause for Han Kim for his intreped reporting!

Thank you, fatmanseoul.com, for giving me this opportunity to blog about one of my favorite passions, food. I was on special assignment to investigate the new phenomenon of Korean food globalization. The newest addition to the Korean food takeover (other than Issac Toast and BBQ chicken) is Bibigo.

BiBiGo’s newest location over the Pacific is in Los Angeles, near UCLA’s campus in Westwood Village. The modern signage is a little odd-looking, but cute. I could feel my Koreaness oozing from all my pores. “They used a spoon for a letter,” I thought, “awww, cute!”

Immediately I noticed the beers in the cooler by the entry. This “healthy” restaurant is trying to be healthy, but they have beer. At least they have some of the bori cha (barley tea) I’m familiar with. All the items available were about $9 or more. I went with the first option of Bibigo Rice, since my philosophy is the first thing on the menu is usually the best thing on the menu, else why would they put it first?I have a lot of rice options, and I get the most non-white looking rice, since I grew up hearing that the whiter rice is the worse for your health. I choose to get chicken since I thought I should lose some pounds, since I was going to be in a triathlon soon. Plus, it’s really hard to mess up chicken and I want to play it safe. My fourth choice on the menu was sauce, and I choose the citron soy since I like a little bit of soy on my chicken. But what the heck is green sesame? Undercooked sesame seeds? There were other entrees options to choose from such as Ruby Grapefruit Salad, Jap chae , or Duk boki (Spicy Rice Cakes), but I was craving rice.

Since they just opened, I wanted to give the business a chance and not judge too harshly on food prep. I could see chaos in the front as they tried to fill the orders, but it looked like only one person was putting the sides together. I noticed there were several managers running the restaurant, but only one was really helping while the others would stand there try to help but really just criticizing the workers. Dude, not in front of the customers! I wondered if he really knew what he was doing, or was just a investor who insisted on being there for the opening. If you are going to help, do your share instead of going over the mistakes that your workers might have made. After all, you’re the ones who designed the restaurant so that only one person can work the banchan station. One peeved customer waiting for 20 minutes for her food, but they only had half of the order completed. She was critical of the fact they didn’t take orders by phone to speed up the process. Korean food to me was never really fast food. If it’s fast, it usually ends up bad.

The food, on the other hand, was good and fresh. It had better be, since I I paid $9 for it. The banchan with shitake mushrooms, pickled cucumbers, and daikon went well. The chicken wasn’t that substantial, but it’s supposed to be healthy, right? The whole meal was served on top of a bed of lettuce. My non-Korean friend, Paul, got the bibimbap. He thought the bulgogi needed more flavor, but was happy with his bibimbap, even though he misses the egg. On a previous trip, I had tried the stone pot bibimbap and had one question: Where is my egg? In consolation, the broccoli and the spinach was good. All I needed was kimchi, but being in America I had to be satisfied with sliced jalapeno peppers.

The interior was nice, like a soothing, Korean, modern-looking restaurant. I feel like I could have stayed there to surf the net and chill with my friends. My friend said he could eat here once a month, as could I. It’s a nice place for a lunch date, or maybe dinner date, since they have beer. I doubt they will have a happy hour, but if this place served better anju, I’d be there everyday. I do hope for the best for Bibigo, since Korean food deserves recognition and it’s paving the way for other Korean food franchises to step into the American market.

Again, Fatman would like to thank Han Kim for taking the time to review BibiGo LA for us!

비빔밥/bibimbap:  If you see this on a restaurant menu, you are getting the most basic version possible ~ white rice and an assortment of vegetables both cooked and uncooked, usually lettuce, bean sprouts, carrots, zucchini, bellflower root, cucumber, dried seaweed, radish, spinach, ferns, and/or mushrooms.  There may also be a bit of beef (ground or in small strips) and a fried egg to top it off.  Properly done, there should be at least five colors (blue/green, red, yellow, white,  and black/brown) arranged in a visually pleasing manner.  If there’s no 고추장 (gochujang/ pepper paste) lurking under the egg, it’ll be in a jar on the table.  Typically served in a stainless steel or ceramic bowl, but fancy schmancy places will sometimes use brass bowls.  Of course, if it’s a fancy schmancy sort of place, you’re more likely to get . . .

전주 비빔밥/Jeonju bibimbap:  Ah, the grande dame of bibimbap!  Jeonju-style bibimbap is as famous as it is confusing.  Many a hungry soul has wandered down Jeolla-way only to wonder what the hell makes this dish special.  Well, for starts, this bibimbap claims royal antecedants, with local lore holding that it developed from court cuisine.  Other typical differences are the inclusion of 황포묵(hwangpomuk, sometimes called 노랑묵/norangmuk), a yellow jelly made from mung beans and gardenia, 육회 (yukhoi, marinated raw beef), and local bean sprouts.  Some restaurants cook the rice in beef broth for a richer flavor, but its the accompanying bean sprout soup (콩나물국/ kongnamulguk) that helps mark this local food for what it is.  The Jeonju-style has come to dominate, so expect a dish that strongly resembles the standard-issue bibimbap, only more elaborate.  And, because this is Jeolla-food, tasty.  Paul Ajosshi and Zen Kimchi both have recommendations on where to track down this tasty treat.

진주 비빔밥/Jinju bibimbap:  Moving east into South Gyeongsang Province, Jinju’s specialty bibimbap involves 육회:  Lots and lots of raw beef marinated in sesame oil, garlic, soy sauce, sesame seeds, and sugar, accompanied by pine nuts, egg, and pear, gets slathered on top of hot rice, which partially cooks the ingredients.  Mmm, beefy!

산채비빔밥/sanchae bibimbap:  This virtually vegetarian version should include fresh mountain vegetables both root and leafy, and can often be found in restaurants near Buddhist temples.  The best ones are made with just picked local vegetables from the hillsides, giving the diner a chance to taste some wilder kinds of vegetal matter, from the  shoots of the hardy kiwi to aster leaves to stringy stonecrop.   It all depends on what’s fresh and local, making it locavore and (minus the common inclusion of an egg) vegetarian and vegan friendly.

돌솥비빔밥:  Basic bibimbap or some variation thereof, but served in a hot stone bowl.  The bowl is usually greased with a little bit of sesame oil to keep the ingredients from sticking right away, and the egg on top is usually served raw and cooked by  the heat of the bowl and ingredients when you stir it all together.  Start stirring this the minute it hits the table, or everything will burn on the bottom, rather than achieving the much sought after crispy crunchy texture.

회덥밥/hoi deopbap:  Despite the name, hoi deopbap is closer to bibimbap than deopbap.  Leafy greens and raw fish (often tuna, salmon, or all those lovely chewy whitefish beloved here in Korea) are served on top of rice,  seasoned with a splash of sesame oil and a dash of chogochujang (초구추장: vinegared pepper sauce).  The most famous of these is  probably . . .

포항물회/Pohang mul hoi:  This variation uses raw halibut, pear, and a whole heap o’ cucumber.

안동헛재사밥/Andong heotjesabap:  Think of this dish not as bibimbap for the weak, but rather the bibimbap of choice for those with a selective palate that doesn’t need the burn of peppers.  That’s right ~ the distinguishing mark of this dish is that its flavored with soy sauce and sesame oil instead of gochujang.  But why, particularly in a region known for the spiciness of its cuisine?

The name holds a clue:  Rice for fake ancestral rites.  There’s a lot of stories as to how this dish came to be, but the most famous is that a young man arrived back in town just a little late for a jesa (a Confucian ritual honoring a deceased family member), but still jonesing for the delicious dietary aftermath.  These rituals involve symbolic offerings of meat, vegetables, fruit, rice, alcohol, and an assortment of fried goodies to the ancestor, and when the bowing is done the non-deceased feast.  However, spicy foods and bright red foods aren’t part of this meal, since the color and flavor are too bold for a solemn occassion.  But what’s a boy to do when the meal is already through?  Ask ‘em to cook it over again,  ancestors be damned!  Hence, “fake” jesa rice.

된장비빔밥:  Swap out spicy gochujang in your standard bibimbap for the mild saltiness of dwenjang (fermented soybean paste) and you’re got a delicious new dish.

보리밥:  Essentially, boribap is a variation of bibimbap using barley instead of or mixed with rice.

Often served with another local specialty, salty mackeral, not to mention a wide host of mostly fried and meaty sides (echoing the delicious snacks for the ancestors), this mixed rice doesn’t have egg or spicy sauce, but does have a subtle and savory flavor to cherish almost as much as the dear departed.

Think of a version Fatman’s forgotten?  Let us know, and we’ll add it to our fieldguide!

apologies for early title problems . . . we’ve had an extra-special visit from the typo fairy, but we’ve finally staked it out and thrashed it so it won’t come back again anytime soon.

Hanjeongshik (한정식) is hands down the best and most efficient way to get a wide variety of the freshest, most seasonal foods. In one single meal, you’ll get a spread that covers the forests and fields and farms’ very best, often prepared using family recipes. It’s a little more spendy, perhaps, than your typical abbreviated lunch menus, but there’s no better way to experience the real depth of Korean food than to sit down at one of these meals.

But if you’re looking for a particularly special rendition of hanjeongshik, look no further than Chongsujeong. This Samcheongdong staple serves up a fairly standard table in terms of sides, with everything from seasonal greens like onion stalks to a silky 묵 (muk: savory jelly) to panfried corvina. There’s usually at least two soups on offer, including doenjangjjigae and kongbijijjigae.

All this would make it a pretty decent place for hanjeongshik, but not spectacular. Luckily, there’s one important item that sets Cheongsujeong apart from the crowd: 홍합.

This restaurant serves no insipid 공기밥 (plain rice). Instead, their rice is steamed with the added goodness of mussels, and enhanced with just a touch of sesame oil and soy sauce for a uniquely rich and flavorful rice. It’s almost gooey and has a pronounced nutty tone, and a single bowl will leave all but the most expansive eater absolutely stuffed. Which, incidentally, is how the restaurant looks at peak times, so be prepared for the possibility of a short wait.

Although its housed in an old traditional home, a modern renovation has left the front rooms fairly charmless, so try and ask for seating in one of the rear rooms. The full hanjeongshik set costs 12,000 won, and is only served to parties of two or more. Don’t despair if you’re a single diner though, because an abbridged lunch set, the 홍합도시락 (honghap doshirak) will set you up with all the most essential parts of the meal for a very reasonable 7,000 won.

Cheongsujeong is very easy to find, on the west side (left as you head north from Gwanghwamun up towards the park) of the main drag of Samcheongdong, just before the 3-way interesection leading back to the road to the Blue House.

You’ll need:

a cup or two of cooked rice (as old as possible. If your rice is fresh, stick it in the fridge, uncovered, for a bit to try and replicate that “oh, look, leftover chinese food!” feeling)

a half packet of ramen soup mix

the veggie packet from the ramen mix (if in a seperate package from the soup mix)

a splash of oil

and if you’re so inclined:
wegetables, cheese, sesame oil, eggs, etc . . . all the accoutrements are as welcome here as in any fried rice recipe.

Heat the oil (carefully!) in a frying pan. Add a dash of the seasoning packet to the oil, then dump in the rice. Howl in pain when you’ve splattered the hot, spicy oil all over yourself. Run to the bathroom and run cold water over your burns. Run back to the kitchen when you realize the oil is smoking and your rice is seconds from incineration. Stir, stir, stir like mad until the oil has coated the rice. Sprinkle a little more seasoning into the rice, and keep mixing. This keeps the rice from burning and spreads out the seasoning. Keep tasting to make sure you don’t over-season. Then, just when you think you’ve got it perfect, decide to add just a touch more, sneeze, and spill the entire remaining contents of the spice package into the pan. If the veggies come seperate, put them in a cup and add a little hot water. After about a minute, drain excess water and add them to the pan. Toss the rice around in the pan, trying to be dramatic and cool like the chefs on TV, then spill it all on the burner. Frantically scrape the spilled stuff onto a plate, turn off the gas (you did turn off the gas, didn’t you? OH NO!), and enjoy having combined two of the least healthy Korean foods in existance.

Voila ~ incredibly unhealthy, over-seasoned fried rice. It’s an MSG fiesta for your plate! 맛있게 드세요!

Within the neatly segmented interior space, a variety of seating options give a choice between snuggling on a sofa, sitting Korean style on the floor, or sitting at more conventional tables and chairs. A differently designed space might have trouble accommodating the different styles, but clever adaptation of the existing structure gives Song’s Kitchen a homey, organic feel.

Equally eclectic but comforting is their take on food. While the menu is limited and mostly aimed at folks who are nibbling and noshing their way home after work, most of what’s there is competently executed. Italian fare like pizza and pasta stand alongside seafood and kimchi fried rice and a warming mess of ddeok, seafood, and cheese inside an whole roasted pumpkin set the tone for hearty snacks to share with coworkers and friends. While not exceptionally sophisticated or creative, the food matches the cheery atmosphere well, and the drink list even better. Tea, juice, and coffee sit side by side with a limited wine and beer list, and a funky set of cocktails. While most places concentrate on trendy mixed drinks, the most interesting mixes here tend to be beer based, including Fatman’s favorite coffee beer combo (although their sangria ain’t half bad either . . .)

Desserts here are a little bit funkier, a little bit more fun than the usual waffle and ice cream combos. Sure, there’s topped waffles here to satisfy your sweet tooth, but a little more care has gone into their creation. Instead of going with the fad for dense, bread-y, overcooked “Belgian” waffles slathered with syrups and topped with whatever sweets were on hand, the Song’s Kitchen rendition shows a little more style. The waffles are smaller and thinner than the competition, but miles away in texture and taste. They may not have the plumpness of a Belgian waffle, nor the airiness of the street waffles, but they have the right balance of fluff and butter to make for an outstanding compromise. And unlike most, they stay tender and slightly chewy instead of instantly settling into gummy awfulness. The fruit selection that comes with them is very fresh and leans towards the tart rather than sweet, and the organic ice cream on the side is a smooth balancing touch that keeps from overloading the palate. The baked apple ring on top lends a little needed crunch to the proceedings.

Prices here are middling, with most entrees running in the 15-20,000 won range since the food is expected to be shared. Plates meant for individuals run a more modest 5-10,000 won, as do desserts. Drink prices are typical, with beer and cocktails running around 5-10,000 each, and wines starting about 30,000 a bottle.

To get to Song’s Kitchen, take line 4 to Hanseong University. Go straight out exit 6, and walk for approximately twenty minutes. Song’s Kitchen is below the elevated walkway on the right hand side, with the roof sign visible from the road.

이번 주부터 한국의 대표적인 축제 중 하나인, 안동 국제 탈춤 페스티벌이 시작되었다. 페스티벌에 대해 좀 더 알고 싶다면 공식 웹사이트(Eng/Kor)를 방문해 보길 바란다. 그게 아니라 먹을 것에 대해 알고 싶어서 왔다면 정말 잘 온 것이다.  안동은 음식으로 꽤 유명한 곳이다. 대부분의 다른 지방은 그곳을 대표하는 한, 두 가지 음식이 있지만, 안동에는 이 지방 특유의 맛을 지닌 음식들이 아주 많다. 여러분 입맛에 맞는 음식을 분명히 찾을 수 있을 것이다.

image courtesy the 빛 http://shine.tistory.com/367

Look for a place serving a very dark-colored jjimdalk; it should be nearly black. Light brown and orange tints to the sauce are going to yield a chicken with a lot less depth. Although lots of places serve jjimdalk, the best place by far is the “Chicken Alley (dalkgolmok)” in Andong Market, downtown. The entire street is nothing but jjimdalk restaurants, and you simply can’t go wrong.

제대로 된 찜닭을 맛보려면 색깔이 매우 어두운 것을 선택하는 것이 좋다. 옅은 갈색이나 오렌지색에 가까워 보이는 것은 맛의 깊이가 그만큼 얕다. 여러 곳에서 찜닭을 맛 볼 수 있지만, 그 중 최고는 단연 안동 구시장 안에 위치한 찜닭골목이다. 골목 전체가 찜닭을 파는 가게만 있기 때문에 못 찾을 리가 없다.

Another famous product of the region is Andong Salted Mackeral (간고등어/gangeodeungeo). Before modern highways and railways, the Nakdong River (낙동강) was an important transit route for shipping goods, including fresh fish. The problem with mackerel is that it spoils quickly, so preservation techniques like packing the fish in salt for shipping evolved. By the time the fish reached inland areas like Andong, the fish had taken on a strong, distinct saltiness. The firm, white fleshed fish is usually served grilled or as part of a spicy soup. There are several restaurants specializing in it, both along the “Food Culture Street” downtown, and in the cluster of restaurants out by Andong Dam.

안동은 간고등어로도 유명하다. 지금의 현대식 고속도로나 철도가 발달하기 전에, 낙동강은 생선을 비롯한 다양한 물건을 실어 나르는 중요한 요충지였다. 그런데 고등어를 다룰 때 가장 문제가 되는 점은 바로 빨리 상한다는 것이었다. 그래서 상하지 않게 하기 위하여 미리 소금으로 절여서 운반하게 된 것이다. 흰살 생선은 보통 굽거나 매운 양념에 조리는 방법으로 요리한다. 간고등어를 전문적으로 하는 음식점은 안동 시내에 있는 ‘음식의 거리’나, 안동댐 근처에서 많이 찾아 볼 수 있다.

Another specialty peculiar to this Confucian outpost is “heotjesabap/헛제사밥” – literally, “rice for fake ancestral ceremonies”. Chesa, or memorial services for ones ancestors, are preformed on death date anniversaries and have their own special set of foods (한국어 링크) to be prepared and served. Well, who could be content waiting for a jesa to roll around? Some enterprising soul decided that he wanted some right then and there, and thus began heotjesabap.  Another story says that the common folk of Andong created it to imitate the local yangban. Assorted jeon (fried foods) and banchan (sides) accompany a bowl of rice served with soy sauce instead of pepper paste for a milder, more sophisticated version of the familiar bibimbap. Look for the cluster of restaurants at Andong Dam, across from Wolyeong Bridge (월영교).

또 다른 음식으로는 헛제사밥을 들 수 있다. 헛제사밥이란 제사를 지내지 않고 먹는 제사음식이라는 뜻이다. 제사같이 조상을 위해 지내는 의식에는 특별하게 정해진 음식만 쓰여진다. 하지만 제사가 돌아 올 때까지 기다리고만 있을 것인가? 그래서 한 모험적인 정신을 가진 사람의 아이디어로 인해 헛제사밥이 시작되었다는 이야기가 있다. 그리고 안동 지방의 일반 민중들이 양반을 흉내내기 위해서 시작되었다는 이야기도 있다. 헛제사밥에는 여러 종류의 전과 반찬이 밥과 함께 나온다. 그리고 좀 더 순하고 특별한 비빔밥의 맛을 내기 위해 고추장 대신에 간장도 같이 나온다. 헛제사밥은 월영교 건너편의 안동댐 근처에서 맛 볼 수 있다.

After all that traveling around, you’ll surely want to quench your thirst. What better way to do it than with a big swig of Andong soju? Ok, maybe not a big swig; this local brew packs twice the alcohol of regular soju so be prepared for a powerful kick. Brewed by master distiller Cho Ok-hwa (조옥화), the traditional liquor has a much smoother feel than normal soju, and a very distinctive sour taste. It’s a little like drinking gym socks – but in a good way!

여기 저기 돌아다니다 보면 아마 굉장히 목이 마를 것이다. 안동소주를 한 병 쭉 들이키는 것보다 더 좋은 것이 어디있으랴! 한 병은 좀 무리인가?! 이 전통 소주의 알코올 함량은 일반 소주의 두 배나 된다. 하지만 무형문화재인 조옥화 선생님이 빚은 안동의 전통 술인 안동소주는 좀 더 부드럽고 독특한 맛을 느낄 수 있다. 아마 아주 톡 쏘는 맛을 느끼게 될 것이다. 물론 좋은 의미에서…

Check out their very informative website here (English) and here (한국어). Also check out the Andong Soju Museum, across the river from the main downtown area.

안동소주에 대한 정보는 여기(Eng / 한국어)에서 더 자세히 볼 수 있다. 아니면 강 근처에 있는 안동소주 박물관을 한번 찾아가 보는 것도 좋을 것이다. <Korean by MAXZEST>