Some of the richness is also cut by the generous side of steamed green onion, which has been cooked just enough to remove the sting and leaves the diner with a pleasing contrast to the bite of the sauce and the richness of the chicken. It ensures a perfect balance of vegetable flavors to make the dish really quite perfect.

Finally, there is the makguksu. The perfect way to end the meal, both the spicy 비빔 and the cooling 냉면 versions are unusual both for their simplicity and for the gentleness of the flavors and the noodles. Made in-house, these noodles are remarkably soft and smooth, without the extreme chew of most versions. They’re almost more like a western-style noodle in texture, just barely al dente. The broth on the 냉면/nengmyeon style is absolutely extraordinary in its restrained and clean flavors, and utterly refreshing. The broth is almost clear, and uncluttered with the usual beef, boiled egg, pear, or radish that you find most places. It’s just lovely soft noodles, perfectly seasoned broth, and a bit of cucumber for crunch.

The spicy 비빔/bibim version is equally restrained, and the spiciness never exceeds a very pleasant warmth on the tongue. There’s a few more elements here, including some radish kimchi, but the overall impression is almost shy. This is a bibimguksu that has no need to shout. Soft noodles, crunchy veggies, a little bit of spice and a little bit of cooling broth come together in just the right way, in just the right proportions. It is so different from most of the bibimguksu served in South Korea that it almost seems to be a different dish entirely.
All the food does. While it certainly seems familiar, there’s always a more restrained touch with the seasonings, greater concern with balancing the flavors and textures, and a simple ethic of letting the real, underlying flavors of foods shine that make the food here a wonderful representation of North Korean home-style cooking. It’s a rare taste in Seoul, and one Fatman loves as an short culinary escape.

Finding Cheogajip is a bit of an adventure, but go out exit 9 of 양수/Yaksu station on line 6. At the first corner, make a right turn, and at the next through street make a left (leaving you now walking parallel to the main street). When you reach the Y intersection, just past the sauna, veer right. The restaurant is in an unmarked house on the right-hand side of a residential street, but you can locate it by looking for the small blue signboard listing their menu and phone number. Call if you get lost . . .

merci, chosun!

Even in North Korea you can still get your burger fix . . .

South China Post’s Kristine Kwok wrote about her beefy find here (subscription required, 영어링크) and you can read more about your northern fries and fizz here and here (영어 링크.  한국어 여기 . . . 여기 . . . 그리고 여기)

and courtesy cbs, we have video!  bon appetit!

and a tip of the fat hat to serious eats

Rumor has it that Daedongkang Beer is sporadically available south of the DMZ, and Fatman would be especially thankful for some leads on where we might aquire some. Anybody know? Has anybody tried 대동강맥주 before?

thanks, segye.com! he sure looks like he's enjoying that!

That’s what the Chosun Ilbo is calling Chocopies, which have apparently become enormously popular among North Korean workers at Kaesong. English here, 한국어 여기

In honor of the peace-bringing potential of this humble snack, Fatman would like to share with you two “recipes” for the best damn sweet on the peninsula:

1) Frozen Chocopie:  Take still-wrapped chocopie.  Toss in freezer until June.  Take out of freezer, unwrap, and consume while hoards of mosquitoes buzz around your head, thinking only of how much sweeter your blood will now taste.  For garnish, throw another one at your best friend’s head, then be filled with momentary regret when you give them a concussion – only momentary though, because obviously they’re in no condition to eat their chocopie and you’ll have to do it for them.  Mmm, yummy.

2)똥파이 (“Poop Pie”):  Take still-wrapped chocopie.  Mash it up without opening the wrapper.  Toss onto something hot, preferably one of those gigantic propate heaters, or the hottest spot on the ondol.  Wait until you cannot possibly stand another moment of anticipating the oozy, gooey, marshmellow, cookie, and chocolate goodness that awaits you.  Burn your hands pulling open the foil prison of sinful chocolate decadence.  Sigh, because life doesn’t get any better, or because you just wolfed down a snack that bears an uncanny resemblence to the bowel movement it will become.