FatManSeoul » sake

Tokyo Shots

fatmanseoul — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 05:35:43 +0000

Belated, but pretty, we share here shots of food from our most fabulous capital to the East, Tokyo:

Sake and shochu from Jin’s Bar in Shibuya

Miso-marinated fresh cheese with shizo and on toast, Jin’s Bar

Skate jerky, Jin’s Bar

Chicken “gyoza” – instead of using a mandu skin, many bars in Tokyo now de-bone the upper part of chicken wings and put the stuffing into the wing itself. Mmm!

Organic grocery store . . .

Salad made from organic greens from organic grocery store

Seaweed salad with vinegar dressing (also organic)

Steamed turnips with miso dressing (organic, again) – sweet and just the right touch of saltiness. Who knew turnips could be so delightful?

Creamy beefy noodle casserole . . .what this American favorite was doing in the Far East, we know not – but we approve heartily!

Saury tempura . . .light and crispy on the outside, tender and flaky on the inside.

Okonomiyaki street stall at Ueno Park

These slow-roasted fish on a stick take on an amazing smokey flavor as they cook.

Tokyo takoyaki is serious! Seoul takoyaki stalls are no competition to these guys.

Katsura for Katsudon

fatmanseoul — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 07:55:34 +0000

Myeongdong is generally better known for its many chain restaurants and crowded commercial streets than a place to grab really delicious food. The high holy days here are all for shopping, not for feasting. But hidden in the myriad alleys of boutiques and stores are some real gems . . . one of them being the best deal on Japanese food in all of Seoul: Katsura.

Katsura tackles a wide variety of Japanese food, from standard izakaya fare like fried chicken and gyoza, to the “have it your way” okonomiyaki, and on into lunchtime favorites like fried pork cutlets, deep fried shrimp, and croquettes.
It’s these lunchtime sets that form the real backbone of Katsura’s attraction – where else are you going to get a salad, soup, rice, potato croquette, two fried shrimp, a fish fillet, a pork cutlet, and udon for less than 10,000 won?

It’s pretty fantastic stuff, too. The pork cutlets are thick, juicy, and very meaty. The exterior panko breading stays lovely and crisp, with just the right amount of oil. Croquettes are smooth and creamy, with just enough potato chunkiness to show that it was handmade. The fish fillet, although not panko breaded and thus not as delightfully crisp, still has a nice crunch to the crust and a good density and moistness for the fish.

Rapturously good fried shrimp round out the plate with their fresh, sweet flesh encased in crispy panko. But even though the plate is already piled high in meaty, seafoody goodness, you’re still not done.

Fatman might prefer the noodles be a little more toothsome, but there’s no denying that this generous bowl of floury, soft udon noodles hits the spot. The broth is nicely flavored and richer than the usual watery slosh you get in Japanese restaurants in Seoul. Extra points as well for the very lovely, chewy fishcakes and generous slice of fried tofu skin.

The biggest challenge at Katsura is getting in: With excellent value, and some of the best quality Japanese food in Seoul, this place attracts a solid crowd of hungry Myeongdong office workers, and both the main and annex locations are packed solid during regular dining hours. Unfortunately, in order to make a dinner reservation, Katsura requests that you also reserve a bottle of alcohol, so the sober and the weak livered may have a problem. Just show up, and you may be facing a substantial wait. Still, if you can catch a seat in either the tiny ground floor area (which Fatman strongly recommends so you can watch the chefs at work at the grill and enjoy the okonomiyaki show) or in the posher downstairs version it’s well worth a fistful of your hard earned won for what a Japanese aquaintance has christened, “the best Japanese food to be had in Korea” for anyone not blessed with a company expense account.

In addition to their broad menu of Japanese main dishes and izakaya sides, Katsura has a very decent sake and shochu menu, as well as Japanese beers both bottled and drafted. Hope you like them, too, because Katsura also has a bizzare insistance on ordering something alcoholic with certain foods. They will not serve you okonomiyaki if you don’t down an asahi alongside, and there is no crispy Japanese-style fried chicken for dinner if you won’t swill some sake. Call them the tempura tyrants, if you like, but do indulge yourself a bit.

Lunch sets go for approximately 8-10,000 won, and ala carte items run about the same. Expect to spend 15-30,000 per person, including drinks, at dinner time.
To find Katsura, take exit 6 from Euljiro Ipgu (1-ga) Station on line 2. Go straight about twenty meters, and Katsura will be in a small recessed doorway on your left. Go all the way back for the small ground floor annex, or head immediately downstairs for the larger dining room.

Serious Sushi

fatmanseoul — Thu, 19 Feb 2009 06:53:15 +0000

Ichon is the gathering place of Seoul’s Japanese population, but many a visitor has trekked out that direction only to be a little confused: Instead of sushi joints and izakayas, there seems to be a swank European-style cafe on every corner, stylish Italian restaurants in between, and the occasional American-style pie place just to spice it up. But as this video clearly lays out, sushi reigns supreme in the minds of many when we think of Japan:

So where to scratch our sushi urge in Ichon? Look no further than Yeolhae. This second-floor hideaway hosts some very talented sushi chefs who take their fish seriously. The restaurant has several private rooms for you and your guests, but the small counter is where all the action is.

The selection of fish isn’t as extensive as it is at some restaurants, but the fish here is so fresh it’s practically swimming, and expertly prepared. The salmon here especially stands out, with none of the mushiness that sometimes develops with poorly cut or stored fish. And unlike many places, their tamago (omelet) is house made, with a prominent sake and mirin tang behind the sweetness.

The accouterments of the deal are no joke, either. The salad bites that accompany the set menu are tart and refreshing, including a silky seaweed, juicy squid, and a beautifully bite-y Korean-style jellyfish. Korean sides like a smooth white kimchi sit side by side with brilliantly sour Japanese ostukemono (assorted pickles) and fresh, real wasabi.

In addition to their sushi and sashimi, Yeolhae has an extensive mixed menu of Japanese and Korean foods from rice bowls to tempura to soups. Their daegutang (대구탕: pacific cod soup) does a great job of balancing the spice with depth and richness from the seafood. The albap (알밥: rice with roe – usually flying fish roe) pops with briny bits and finds a bit of sweetness too from the vegetables. Tempura likewise is well-made with excellent ingredients, if just a tad heavy on the batter. Finish off your meal with a little fried corvina and a small plate of fruit, and you’ll be well sated.

Yeolhae is a tad on the expensive side, with rice bowls starting at 12,000 won, lunch sets at 22,000won, and dinner sets beginning at 35,000 won. One of their more elaborate sushi plates can easily run over 100,000 won, but the quality here is enough to justify the expense. Unless you’re dining with a big group, try and sit at the counter so you can chat with the chefs, who will point you towards the best catch of the day. Patrons here tend to be a bit older, a fact reflected in the drink menu which tends heavily towards whiskey, scotch, and traditional alcohols from around Asia. If you’re adventurous, try the sake infused with roasted fish fins for a strangely satisfying savory tipple.
To get to Yeolhae, take exit 4 from Ichon Station and walk straight out the exit to the main street. Turn left and go one block, and Yeolhae will be on the right hand side of the street on the second floor, above the Mr. Pizza.